I’m still following you and the other bloggers at:
Say hello to those penguins and keep riding!
Maria Eleana and the tour leaders suggested a 33km (66km total) out-and-back ride through the Reserva Nacional Llanquihue beside the Petrohue River because the road from Puerto Varas to Petrohue was under construction. A large strip of the road was torn up to put in a bike path – which I am sure future groups will enjoy. After breakfast, we all piled into the vans to shuttle the 50km to Ensenada where we could pick up supplies for a picnic lunch en route.
Don't look now, there is a volcano behind me!
Unfortunately, M.E. wasn’t feeling well so she drove one of the vans and our tour leader Tristan rode with us instead. (One tour leader almost always rides in case someone needs help on the route and brings up the rear to make sure that we don’t leave anyone behind.) Tristan is a talented ultra runner who regularly competes in 100 mile foot races through the mountains of Argentina. Last year he won! I got to pick his brain a little about his training (more sprints and hills), what he eats (everything) and how it feels at mile 80 (not good).
The out and back road was a little hillier then I expected but there was usually a van nearby to refill water bottles and provide snacks. After a particularly long and steep decent around 22kms into the route, I decided I was tired and it was time to turn around, so I went back up the hill and set off in the direction of the Saltos del Petrohue (Waterfalls of Petrohue). On the way, I stopped to take about 100 pictures of the Osorno Volcano and stopped for ice cream at the falls.
Volcano Osorno
Saltos of Petrohue
On the way there, we entered the national park where there were more beautiful views of the volcano as well as piles of lava rock and ash from the last explosion. This evening we are staying in the beautiful Hotel Petrohue and will have dinner as a full group one last time before I have to leave for the airport in the morning.
I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my first tour with ExperiencePlus! The riding was fantastic, our tour leaders added so much to the tour with their experience and their stories and several of the other members of the group and I became friends. I look forward to many more tours with ExperiencePlus! in the future!
For bookings or additional information, please contact ExperiencePlus! directly at 1-800-685-4565 or by email: tours@experienceplus.com
Yesterday we had a break from biking – and from packing our bags and moving to a different town and hotel again. Javier and Tristan offered to take the group to the nearby city of Puerto Montt for the morning to see the fish market and enjoy some fresh seafood for lunch. Nearly everyone from the tour took them up on their offer. My lunch of king crab was delicious and it was very interesting to see how the fish is sold to locals. I’m glad I went.
Puerto Montt
Fish Market
Fish Market 2
During the afternoon we had three choices: go back to Puerto Varas to enjoy town and a leisurely afternoon, go white water rafting or try canyoning. The tour leaders explained canyoning as jumping off cliffs into pools, riding waterfalls, and rappelling down near a waterfall. This sounded like quite the adrenaline rush, and as someone who always likes to try new things, an opportunity I could not pass up.
Two other members of the tour and our tour leader, Tristan, felt the same way. We picked up our guide in Puerto Montt and drove part of the way around the volcano into a nature reserve where the company was waiting with full-body wetsuits, worn out tennis shoes and helmets. The four of us pulled on our wetsuits to our waist and hike up the trail about 30 minutes to the top of a series of waterfalls fed by natural springs.
The Wetsuits
Jeff and I... before.
After taking a minute to pull the rest of our wetsuits on and make sure our helmets were sized properly, our guide stepped out to the edge of a small cliff and said in somewhat broken English, “Okay, this is our first jump. Do not hesitate; do not land on the rock below, jump to the deep part.” He pointed down towards the water. I peaked over the cliff and was surprised that it didn’t seem like they were easing us into this… or at least I hoped they weren’t. Tristan volunteered to go first and stand on the rock we were going to need to avoid and one by one, each of us jumped off the cliff into the frigid water.
The next section contained different small waterfalls and slides over the rocks made smooth by the constantly rushing water. One was called the washing machine, because once you dropped off the waterfall into the pool below the water flowed in such a way you would shoot out and then circle around slowly before getting shot off again. Another they called the toilet bowl, because I would imagine, it’s exactly what being flushed down a toilet would feel like. You go head first, with your arms out in front of you, get sucked under at the bottom and then shot out into the waiting pool.
Occasionally, there was a jump with options for different heights. I usually took the lowest or the second to the lowest. Our tour guide, Tristan and the photographer who was on the tour, Jeff would jump off the highest cliffs with the guide, who would usually do a back flip or some other ridiculous trick on the way down. One trick I tried was running up onto the wall beside the pool, which gets steeper and steeper until you are running parallel to the ground until you fall into the pool. How fun!
The final “jump” was really not a jump at all, but repelling down a 100 foot rock face next to a waterfall. I thought it was a little scary getting roped up as I was clipped into a safely rope attached to the wall and asked to put my foot on a tiny little stone coming out of the top of this wall of rock beside the waterfall. My wetsuit and tennis shoes made it difficult to feel the notch, compounded by the fact that my feet, at that point, felt like blocks of ice. Nevertheless, the guide clipped me in and lowered me down to a small cliff overlooking the pool at the bottom of the waterfall where my companions were waiting for me.
The guide lowered himself down last where I naively asked him, “How do we get down from here?” He informed me that I was free to stay on the cliff, or jump to the pool, my choice. This was my highest jump of the day, 9 meters, where I should land just to the left of the waterfall, signaling that I am okay and swimming to the side of the pool to crawl out. No problem.
I thought it was hilarious that this whole experience happened and no one ever asked me if I could swim, or if I would sign a waiver.
Jeff, Lisa, me, and Tristan... after. We survived! (I had some doubts)
For bookings or additional information, please contact ExperiencePlus! directly at 1-800-685-4565 or by email: tours@experienceplus.com
I woke up in the middle of the night to a banging sound. I had left the shutters open in the bathroom to get a little air flow through the cozy bedroom on Lake Llanquihue. A rain storm had rolled in during the night and was still going strong in the morning. Or ride wasn’t suppose to be too long so we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast while the tour leaders had checked the forecast and decided to push back the departure time about an hour. Sure enough, by 11am it was still lightening up outside. Most of us bussed to the top of the hill just off the peninsula before getting on our bikes.
The morning ride took us through the country side on the west side of Lake Llanquihue with beautiful views of the Osorno and Calbuco Volcanos. We stopped in Frutillar for lunch, a historic German colony. I visited the Pioneer Village Museum of German Colonization that features several old homes, a water wheel, and a thrashing house, in a park with flowers, ponds, walking trails, and dogs running around.
The Lovely Maria Elena Price
The afternoon weather had a slight cloud cover and was a little cooler out then it has been in the afternoon (perfect riding weather) so I decided to put in a few more miles on the bike despite the aggressive hills on the profile for the route. At one point – and for only about 10 meters – the pitch on the second large hill reached 21% Maria Elena warned me not to pull up on my handle bars or I would run the risk of tipping over backwards. I followed the white chalk arrows to the end of the route and jumped on the shuttle for the remaining 10km to Puerto Varas.
White Chalk Arrows Mark the Way!
The tour leaders wisely decided we probably wouldn’t want to ride on the Pan-American Highway, the only route the rest of the way to town.
Dinner was “on your own” so I chose to try a local favorite with a couple of people from the tour and the tour leaders. My dish of crab casserole was one of the best things I ever ate.
Maria Elena, Tristan, Javier, Lisa, and Mike
For bookings or additional information, please contact ExperiencePlus! directly at 1-800-685-4565 or by email: tours@experienceplus.com
Today we arrived in Puerto Octay on Lago Llanquihue in the Chilean Lake District. A little tired from the pass, we got a late start from Termas de Puyehue. My yummy buffet-style breakfast of a roll, cheese, fruit, yogurt and muesli fueled me though the first couple of climbs before the terrain flattened out into some very gently rolling hills.
We stopped for lunch at a little local dairy farm and restaurant on the route. The trout and avocado sandwich was fantastic. Some of the best avocados I ever tasted – and I’ve tasted many an avocado.
We took a detour during the route to a “surprise” the tour leaders had scouted for us ahead of time. After some rolling hills on a country road through farmland that looked a lot like the Shire from Lord of the Rings, we arrived on a hill that had a fantastic view of volcanos Osorno and Puntiagudo.
Speed Demons that Beat me to the Look Out
Volcano Osorno
We had the option to shuttle through the city of Osorno, a heavily trafficked area, before riding the last 30km to the hotel. I chose to take the shuttle all the way to the hotel to write a little, read a little, and enjoy a shower and some quality time in the hot tub. I am on vacation after all.
On the way to the hotel, Tristan teaches about about salmon farming
We are staying on Lago Llanquihue, the largest lake in Chile before traveling on towards Puerto Varas tonight.We are suppose to have one of the best dinners here. Fingers crossed!
Before dinner, we relaxed on the patio with a drink and a view of the lake
For bookings or additional information, please contact ExperiencePlus! directly at 1-800-685-4565 or by email: tours@experienceplus.com
Day 3: Crossing to Chile was the longest and the hardest day of riding. It was also the day with the most bureaucracy because we left Argentina and entered Chile. Thank goodness we had beautiful weather!
The Group Stops for Pictures on the Shores of the Lake
This View Does Not Suck
Happy Cyclist
Two Happy Cyclists
After leaving the hotel, we regrouped at the Argentine custom house after about 28 miles.
Exiting Chile
Then, we began a 15km climb to Cardenal Samore Pass where we had lunch in no man’s land at the top, which is the official border between Argentina and Chile.
View on the Climb
Guy Cunningham Takes on the Climb
The bad news of the day is that one of the members of our tour, Harold, had an accident during the climb. It only took a couple of minutes for our tour leader, Tristan, to arrive on the scene. We were just a few kilometers from customs so Tristan took Harold back to Argentina, an ambulance arrived and Harold was taken to the clinic in Villa la Angostura. Harold did suffer a broken clavicle – though at one point, asked Tristan if he could still ride tomorrow. Tough guy! I was really impressed by how the tour leaders handled the accident and the way it was communicated to the rest of the group. Lunch was not interrupted and I didn’t feel neglected, even during this obvious emergency.
Knowing that Harold was in good hands, I think everyone was still able to enjoy themselves knowing that, unfortunately, these things do happen. After lunch, I began my descent early. I’m not comfortable with downhills and usually have to stop to rest my hands several times before reaching the bottom. This descent wasn’t too bad because it wasn’t exposed and included some rolling hills so I had the opportunity to slow down once in a while without giving my hands a workout. On my way down, I finally figured out that what scared me the most about descents is my awareness of how fast I am going. As soon as I turned the odometer on my bike upside down and I couldn’t read the numbers, I felt much more comfortable.
Top of the Pass
The Official Border of Argentina and Chile - In No Man's Land
The entry to Chile was a little cumbersome as at customs they check everyone’s bag and wanted to make sure we are all together. It certainly was an interesting cultural experience but Javier took care of everything so all we needed to do was wait and follow instructions by the folks in uniform and our own tour leaders. I drank a bottle of water and enjoyed the shade.
Checking into Argentina
After customs, we had about 25km left before we arrived at the Hotel Termas De Puyehue. While a little more upscale then what I’m used to, the spa was beautiful – and all inclusive – which means that I went straight to the bar and ordered the signature Chilean drink, a Pisco Sour. I didn’t have quite as much time to enjoy the thermal pools as I hoped that I would but the “free” drink and buffet dinner more than made up for it.
For bookings or additional information, please contact ExperiencePlus! directly at 1-800-685-4565 or by email: tours@experienceplus.com
Last night was officially the first day of the tour. After meeting M.E. and the tour leaders Javier and Tristan at Ditry Bikes for the bike fitting, I took a shower and headed off to the welcome drinks at the hotel bar. I spent a little time getting to know the other cyclists and enjoying a glass of wine. Javier and Tristan talked about how the tour would run moving forward. Each day we get a “day sheet” that includes highlights, hotel information, phone numbers in case of emergency, where and when we can expect to eat, elevation and directions for the day’s ride and other facts you “might like to know.”
Following the safety talk the group walked to one of the more famous “parrillas” for authentic Argentine barbecue. Huge quantities of beef, lamb and chicken are grilled in the center of the restaurant and served with salad, fries and grilled provoleta (provolone) cheese.
Argentine BBQ
Even though I’ve been a vegetarian for over three years, this Iowa girl couldn’t resist a big juicy steak to kick off the first ride. Thank goodness it didn’t make me sick!
My Annual Steak
Today was a beautiful and rolling 43 mile (70km) ride from just outside of Bariloche to Villa la Angostura. About 15km into the ride, we climbed a small mountain pass before the road dipped down to the south shore of Lake Nahuel Huapi. I had to stop to take in the view. The trees are so green and the water a clear turquoise clean enough to drink directly out of.
Maria Elena and Me
We had a delicious picnic lunch of fruit, salad, and empanadas at a campground just north of where I stopped.
I just arrived at the hotel just a couple of blocks from the main street of Villa la Angostura. The manager showed me to my room and made it a point to show me how to use the jacuzzi in my bathtub. My shower was heaven.
Now I’m headed into town to have a post-ride beer and enjoy this pretty little mountain town.
In the meantime, I can’t help but mention we have several other bloggers traveling with us today. Go check them out:
For bookings or additional information, please contact ExperiencePlus! directly at 1-800-685-4565 or by email: tours@experienceplus.com
I arrived in Bariloche yesterday after a somewhat interesting bus ride from Puerto Varas. The bus was clean and comfortable and featured on-board entertainment in the form of an up-close look at the healthy black market of bus tickets. The bus was packed, even though the previous day only 12 people had purchased tickets in advance. I saw several passengers give the driver cash when they boarded the bus, and in one instance I was sure I saw a passenger give the driver a license in exchange for a passport just before the Chilean border.
Last night, my friend M.E. and I joined the locals of Bariloche for dinner at a little pasta place in the neighborhood up the street from the touristy area. In Argentina, people eat dinner late and I’m sure that at 9:30, M.E. and I were in the early bird crowd. The pasta and wine were delicious – and $10 a piece!
After sleeping in and going for a walk by the lake this morning, I visited Dirty Bikes for my bike fitting this afternoon. My bike is great — except for the fact that it’s lacking a motor, which means that I will have to pedal over the Andes. I’m off to the welcome drinks now followed by dinner at the Boliche De Alberto Grill before setting off on a 37 mile ride for Villa La Angostra tomorrow. I’m looking forward to getting on the bike!
For bookings or additional information, please contact ExperiencePlus! directly at 1-800-685-4565 or by email: tours@experienceplus.com
In 3 days I’m leaving to “Pedaling the Andes,” one of ExperiencePlus! Bicycle Tours’ offerings in Argentina and Chile. This 8-day tour begins in San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina and ends, approximately 266 miles later, in Puerto Montt, Chile.
Highlights of the tour include biking through Chile’s lake district, views of Osomo and Calbuco volcanoes, waterfalls on the Petrohue River, thermal pools, a morning of white water rafting, charming hotels, and of course, delicious food and wine. Warning: if you run into me, I will not stop talking about how awesome it’s going to be.
ExperiencePlus! asked me to blog about my trip while we are in South America so please be sure to check back. Potential blog topics include:
While I didn’t train for the biking part of this trip at all, I did check out some of my favorite travel blogs for good ideas of things to write about. Here are some of my favorites:
A dashboard for frequent travelers, Using Miles is the place to manage all your loyalty programs in one place. They also have a search engine to find the best cash and award travel deals as well as ideas for how to earn more miles and points through making smart travel choices.
Everything you ever wanted to know about airlines and airport travel.
With a motto of “Living the first class life, at coach prices” what’s not to get on board with. Who doesn’t want to maximize comfort, style, and convenience, while getting a great deal.
This is probably the top destination and news blog out there. Compelling stories and gorgeous photography will make you check your vacation calendar, your savings account balance, and your frequent flier mile account over and over again.
More of an industry blog that provides news, analysis, commentary, data and business services to the travel, tourism and hospitality industry. Travel meets technology. Here is a recent favorite article about the valuation of the activity segment.
I’ve been fortunately enough to have been able to do a fair amount of international travel and one thing that I’ve discovered is that, outside of the basics, you have to pack much differently depending on the type of travel you are doing. This should not come as a surprise, but an could be an obstacle that I think people overlook before a couple of days before they leave. There is more planning that goes into adventure travel then goes into sightseeing or laying on a beach somewhere. As previously discussed, I’m a huge fan of lists and usually write out my packing list – by bag – a couple of weeks before I depart to make sure I have time to pick up any last minute essentials or gear. Here’s my list for Pedaling the Andes:
Wear while traveling:
In carry-on:
Essentials:
Other:
Checked bag:
Biking clothes:
Clothes for evenings and time off the bike:
Toiletries:
Misc:
For a checked bag, I swear by a large backpack. I have a Bergans of Norway Helium Lady 55L and love how it zips down the side so I can find things that aren’t on the top without unloading my whole bag. The reason why I like the backpack is if the backpack fits well, it’s actually much more mobile then a roller bag. Many hotels outside the United States don’t have elevators and lifting a roller bag up and down several flights of stairs can be difficult. I also find that I’m much more mobile if I don’t have to bounce a roller bag up and down curbs or over cobblestones so it’s easier to get around using public transportation.
Finally, if you are on the fence about taking something, don’t. It’s not fun to haul around a giant bag and it’s interesting to live with a little less then you usually do. At the end of the day, if you really miss that thing you didn’t bring, chances are, you can buy one when you get there.
What is your must-have item you never leave home without?
